🌳 Optimal Planting Method
The best start for your Arborvitae involves preparing the hole and the root ball correctly to encourage rapid root establishment and minimize "transplant shock".
1. Digging: Wide and Shallow
- The hole must be "2 to 3 times wider" than the root ball.
- The hole should be "no deeper" than the root ball's height.
- The top of the root ball/root flare must sit "at or slightly above" the surrounding soil grade. "Never plant too deep."
2. Root Preparation
- Remove all containers, burlap, wire, and twine completely.
- For container plants, gently slice or tease out circling roots to encourage outward growth.
3. Backfilling and Settling
- Backfill the hole primarily with the "native soil".
- Gently tamp or, ideally, "water in" the soil to eliminate air pockets around the root ball.
💧 Essential Aftercare: Watering and Mulch
→ Proper watering is the single most critical factor for survival during the first year.
Watering Schedule (Deeply & Slowly)
- "Immediately Post-Planting:" Water deeply and thoroughly.
- "Year 1 (Growing Season):" Water every 3-5 days. Check the soil first!
- "How:" Use a hose on a slow trickle for 10-15 minutes at the base of each shrub to soak the entire root ball and surrounding soil.
- "The Test:" Stick your finger 2-3 inches into the soil. If it is dry, water. If it is moist, wait.
Mulch Application (The 'Donut')
- Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch (wood chips/bark).
- Spread the mulch wide, creating a "donut" shape.
- "CRITICAL:" Keep the mulch "2-3 inches away from the trunk" to prevent rot and pests.
- Mulch helps regulate temperature and retains precious moisture.
⚠️ Troubleshooting Browning / Dieback
Browning is often a sign of stress (Transplant Shock), which is very common with new evergreens.
Action Plan: Ensure the plant is not too deep, and strictly adhere to the deep-but-infrequent watering schedule. Lightly prune only the completely dead, brittle brown sections, cutting back to healthy green wood.